Time to eat and explore – by leesan
An exclusive post-pandemic Hong Kong gastronomy tour with an international personality.
One of the travellers at the foot of Victoria Peak. The group then hiked from there to the top of the mountain, overlooking the city. — Photos: Leesan
CELEBRITY food critic and columnist Chua Lam lived in many places around the world when he was younger. At the time, he was working as a film and television producer, and his job took him to many places.
He travelled a lot not only to look for inspiration for his films, but to also try new cuisines. It was during this period that he developed a passion for writing, too.
Though he enjoyed his semi-nomadic life, Chua Lam opted to settle down in one of the most “convenient” and colourful cities in the region – Hong Kong.
As a city that’s at the confluence of Western and Oriental cultures, Hong Kong has a unique urban fabric, a place where you can enjoy a cup of milk tea, munch on a slice of peanut and honey French toast and wolf down a bowl of wanton noodles right smack in the city’s ultra-modern global financial hub.
Whatever happens to the city, Hong Kong continues to shine with its exclusive “Pearl Of The Orient” glow.
And as a globe-trotter eager to learn about our world, I can genuinely feel the city’s highly diverse yet exquisite attribute each time I am there.
Hong Kong has experienced gradual and subtle changes after the pandemic. The society appears somewhat impetuous and the economy glum. That said, though, the city refuses to forgo its versatility and tenacity, and is always quick to adapt to changes in the environment.
The city has also seen a marked improvement in its services industry. Greetings such as “Hi, is there anything I can help you with?” are often heard in the hospitality sector now.
Despite the changes, it is vital for the city to retain its iconic characteristics. Hong Kong is one-of-its-kind in this world, and is irreplaceable in my opinion.
And there are still people in this big city who insist on safeguarding its essence.
The tour group with Chua Lam (centre, seated) at the famous Kamcentre roast Goose in Causeway Bay.
The columnist at Cheung Chau island, which is about 10km from the mainland. It is worth visiting this place to see a completely different side of Hong Kong.
Chua Lam has, on numerous occasions, helped in the production of Hong Kong Tourism Board’s promotional videos, calling out to the world to descend upon Hong Kong to savour its mouth-watering delicacies. On his own, he is also more than willing to tell the world everything big or small that characterises the city, and share its time-honoured flavours.
During my most recent visit, we met up and as usual, our conversations invariably revolve around travel, food and lifestyle.
It was a breezy cool October day, and the movie Twilight Of The Warriors: Walled In had just broken box-office records, triggering renewed interest in the city’s Kowloon Walled City. We were at an old Teochew restaurant, which has been around for decades but is still doing brisk business today.
Its third-generation owner, Chan, has been a long-time friend of Chua Lam’s, who shares his passion for the city’s old flavours.
It is said that celebrities like Chow Yun-fat and Johnnie To have frequented the shop and loved its remarkable Teochew offerings. I myself have had the privilege of being entertained by Chua Lam at this place on three separate occasions.
This time around, we discussed our sixth collaborative work called the “Lee San-Chua Lam Tour Series – Hong Kong Edition”, a gastronomy package where we take travellers on a food tour.
Jane, the restaurant’s manager, said to us, “It’s been some time since we last hosted a tour group here, so I’m looking forward to this.”
The tour took place in December, and 22 travellers joined us, eating our way through the city. The highlight of course was a lunch date with Chua Lam at the legendary Kamcentre Roast Goose in Causeway Bay.
Talk show host Angel Wong, a Hong Kong native who now lives in Malaysia, said this was the first time she had joined a tour group to visit her own hometown.
She added that the tour had reawakened her curiosity for the city.
The Michelin-recommended dessert shop “Jia Jia Dessert”. We queued up for two consecutive nights to taste it. I have to say that Hong Kong’s desserts are really passed down from generation to generation, and each one has its own unique highlights, which are worth checking in.
After the lunch, the tour continued with an exploration of the city’s many charms. From the streets and alleys of Yaumatei to the Victoria Peak and Cheung Chau island, every bit of the tour evoked new discoveries of Hong Kong’s nostalgic past. Looking down the Victoria Harbour from Victoria Peak, we could feel the pulsating energy of the vibrant metropolis.
The coronavirus has posed unprecedented challenges to the city’s tourism industry, sending vacancy rates in properties downtown skyrocketing at one point.
Nevertheless, the city refuses to stop moving forward. This year, the Hong Kong Tourism Board is using the slogan, “Let’s go the extra mile” to encourage local residents to host every visitor with heart-felt sincerity and enthusiasm.
The gastronomy tour with Chua Lam was much more than just a rendezvous of old tastes and memories, but also a rare opportunity to once again witness the city’s resilience and enchantment.
During the tour, we walked the city’s breadth to explore its many untold stories, and to feel the depth of its flavours with our taste buds.
May the old taste of Hong Kong live on.
Published in The Star, 25 Jan 2025
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